Showing posts with label Astronomy Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Astronomy Tips. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Astronomy Software

Sometimes in amateur astronomy, a computer and appropriate software can be a very helpful thing. Take for example the following case, which is very similar to my own situation right now. You haven't observed in weeks, due to being busy at work (and having no vacation days left), and you finally get a chance to go out to the telescope. Once you've got your fancy 'scope all set up, you realize the sky has changed drastically since last time you observed. A session planning software would make a great addition to your gear at this point. Maybe you're new to the hobby, or just fooling around in some spare time. Astronomy software can also help teach new observers about the most interesting night sky objects and how to find them. In the following article, we'll take a look at some commercial and shareware programs that can help you out when you're at the 'scope.

The software I personally use the most is called Stellarium. Stellarium is an open-source, cross-platform software. This means it is free and available for Windows, Mac, and Linux computers. This is also the reason I use Stellarium quite a bit. I run Linux on all of my own computers, so it is a major plus for me. Stellarium is good at projecting a lifelike sky on your computer screen. The constellations and objects are labeled, and there are many display options. It will also simulate eclipses, and there is a meteors option. Some planetariums even use Stellarium to render their shows. Displaying the sky is one of the few features of Stellarium, however. There are some scripts available for it that provide new features, but some of the features of commercial software are missing.

Starry Night Pro Version 6.2.3 Astronomy SoftwareIf you want some of the nicer features, however, you're going to want to invest in some commercial astronomy software. Such a software is a great investment in your hobby, as it will make your observing sessions more organized. You may even learn some new stuff! Starry Night is a program that works somewhat like Stellarium, but includes many more useful features. Starry Night is available in several different versions, ranging from beginner to expert. Starry Night Enthusiast Version allows users to explore a 3-D model of the entire universe, and zoom in on planets, stars, nebulae, and other objects. It even allows you to track space probes as they roam through space. Starry Night Pro Version adds the ability to plan viewing sessions. It also will allow tracking of artificial satellites (such as the space station) using any computerized telescope mount and an adapter. Now that is cool... For those of you into astrophotography, they also offer an AstroPhoto Suite that can organize and improve your imaging sessions. Starry Night software is currently on sale, so check it out while it lasts!

Also worth mentioning is a list of open source and free programs at Midnight Kite. On this page, there are many, many programs, each of which is specialized in doing one calculation or another. This page is definitely worth checking out. If you need a program or script for your observatory, its probably there. Sky and Telescope also offer some free programs, such as Mars Previewer II, Binoplan, Cool, Flex, and Sec. All of these programs perform specific tasks and are available here. I have personlly found the Mars Previewer II to be very useful in determining if you really did see that feature on the red planet's surface.

I hope this article has been of some help to you in organizing and improving your sessions with the help of computer software. Of course, this is only the tip of the iceberg, so to speak. Therefore, expect more software articles as I discover new pieces of software that can help you get more out of your observing time.

Clear skies!


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Monday, July 14, 2008

Noctilucent Clouds

Next time you are outdoors near sunset, look towards the West. If you are lucky, you might spot a rare cloud formation known as a noctilucent cloud. Noctilucent clouds look similar to a high cirrus cloud, but appear to glow iridescently. These beautiful cloud formations are seasonal, appearing most commonly in spring and summer, so now is a great time to keep your eye out for them! Location plays a role in how likely you are to see these clouds, too. Northern mid-latitudes, such as the northern US and Canada experience noctilucent clouds more often; however, they have been seen further South than this and have become more frequently sighted in Southern locations than ever before. Sometimes they are even visible from US states as far South as Virginia! So what causes these beautiful "glowing" clouds, and why have they become more common?

While noctilucent clouds are not fully understood, it is known that they form from water in the extreme upper atmosphere that condenses into ice. These cloud formations are also known to exist at altitudes of 50 miles or more, higher than any other cloud formation or meteorological phenomenon. The temperatures at these heights can be as low as -220* F (-140* C)! These extremely cold temperatures, combined with the high altitude give the noctilucent clouds their cirrus-like appearance. These clouds can be differentiated from cirrus by observing them with binoculars. While cirrus clouds can be faint and wispy, noctilucent clouds are typically very well defined.

The extreme height at which these clouds form is also the cause of their iridescent glow. Because these clouds are so high up in the atmosphere, when we are in the Earth's shadow, they are still in the sunlight. This makes it seem like the sun is still shining on these clouds, giving them an ethereal glowing appearance. There is a brief moment in time when noctilucent clouds will be visible. The best time to observe them is when the Sun has just recently set. About 30 minutes after sunset, while the horizon is still dusky, is a good time to start looking. Remember that these clouds are faint, so they won't be blindingly obvious at first, unless you get lucky enough to see a very nice noctilucent cloud! The best conditions for observing a noctilucent cloud is a clear night, with little or no low cloud cover, and no moonlight or light pollution. Late spring to Summer are the best seasons to observe these clouds.

Interestingly, these noctilucent clouds are becoming more common! While the reason for this is not fully known, some have linked the increase in noctilucent clouds to pollutants in the upper atmosphere, and to water vapor left by the space shuttle and other space exploration craft. If this trend continues, noctilucent clouds may become commonplace!

Clear skies!


Image Courtesy of Mika Yrjölä


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Monday, March 31, 2008

Watch for the Zodiacal Light!

This time of year is a great time to look out for an optical phenomenon known as the zodiacal light.

The zodiacal light is an optical phenomenon that is caused by the sun's light reflecting off of cosmic dust in the inner solar system. It can be seen as a faint triangular wedge of light on the horizon, and along the ecliptic.

The best conditions for viewing the zodiacal light are just after sunset in the spring, and just before sunrise in the autumn. Lighting conditions must be extremely dark, however, in order to see the zodiacal light. Any light pollution or moon light will ruin your chances at seeing this phenomenon. Also make sure not to mistake a local town or city's light dome for the zodiacal light.

Many people have been looking for the zodiacal light for years and have not seen it, so if you don't see it, don't be disappointed! Its worth having a look, though!

Clear skies!

Image courtesy of Dominic Cantin.


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Moon to Occult Pleiades Cluster

On the night of April 8, 2008, at approximately 9:45 PM EDT, the moon will occult some of the stars of the open cluster, M45 (otherwise known as the Pleiades). This should be a great event to see in a wide-field eyepiece or binoculars. Watch the stars as they pass behind the moon, they may wink on and off several times as they pass behind ridges and craters!

Clear skies!


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Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Reflectors versus Refractors

I'd like to take a few minutes to discuss one of the most fervently debated topics in amateur astronomy. Of course, one's personal preference and budget comes into play here, but hopefully this article will help to dispel some of the inevitable rumors and misconceptions out there.Which is right for you? The answer to this question, for you, may be one or the other, both, or neither! (Don't forget compound scopes!) I'm going to keep this article from being biased in one direction or the other; there'll be no scope bashing here!

We'll start by discussing both of the major telescope types' configuration and workings. Then we'll discuss each one's particular advantages and disadvantages. Each individual scope will have its own inherent advantages and disadvantages. There are far too many types of telescopes to cover in depth in one article, so we'll be speaking mostly in generalities.

To start off, we'll take a look at the reflecting telescope. The most common type of reflecting telescope is the Newtonian telescope. The Newtonian telescope uses two mirrors to focus the light into a cone. The primary mirror establishes this cone, and the secondary mirror bends this cone so that it can be viewed from the side of the telescope. An eyepiece is then used to view this image. The image to the left is a representation of the typical Newtonian telescope. The common Dobsonian telescope is also a Newtonian, albeit with a different mount.

The Newtonian design is a very popular telescope, and many of the entry level telescopes are Newtonians or Dobsonians. This is usually because the Newtonian design is very simple. The two mirrors are relatively cheap to manufacture, and are mechanically very simple. Therefore, one can make a Newtonian with a large aperture for very little money. The aperture of the telescope is a measure of how large the objective lens or mirror is. Basically, the bigger the better, and some Dobsonians are huge! I have a 10" model (which weighs almost 70 pounds with base), and that is considered medium sized! Some companies are producing Dobsonian telescopes as large as 30+", for a cost less than a used car.

The Newtonian design is not without flaws, however. The primary mirror of a Newtonian uses a parabolic shape. One drawback of this mirror shape is the aberration known as coma. Coma is an optical aberration that makes stars near the edge of the field of view appear as a tiny check mark. Coma can degrade sharpness of extended nebula and galaxies, and impact views of star clusters. Coma is more readily apparent in fast, large telescopes, although it can be corrected and/or reduced using a Parracor eyepiece. Another drawback of this design is the central obstruction. The secondary mirror sits inside the light cone, so it does slightly reduce contrast. A Newtonian telescope must also be collimated, or have its mirrors aligned, quite frequently. This sounds like a daunting task, but it is really quite easy with a few days experience.

Next, we can discuss the refracting telescope. The refracting telescope works on an entirely different principle than the reflecting telescope. The image to the right shows the basic workings of a refracting telescope. Light enters the objective lens and is focused through several more lenses, then passes into an eyepiece. The refracting telescope is the oldest design for a telescope: it is the type of telescope that Galileo used to view the moons of Jupiter. Because of this, some people feel a nostalgic connection to the refracting design, a true telescope in a sense.

An advantage of the refracting design is that it has no central obstruction. Its entire aperture is clear, and hence, tends to give higher contrast than a reflecting telescope. Another nice thing about the refractor is the position in which you observe. Typically, a refractor will be outfitted with a 90* diagonal mirror before the eyepiece. This makes it so you can observe by looking down into the eyepiece, which is much more comfortable than some of the contortions that an equatorially mounted reflector can get you into. Also, a refractor is nearly permanently aligned. The objective lenses and such don't need frequent collimation as do reflectors. Refractors are pretty much ready to go after a cool-down period.

Refracting telescopes, however, also suffer from an optical aberration. While they don't display a reflector's coma, they do have what is known as chromatic aberration. Chromatic aberration is due to the fact that lenses bend light of different colors with different indices of refraction. This means that the different colors of an object will come to focus at different points. Chromatic aberration can become especially apparent when viewing bright objects such as the moon or planets. High-end refractors, called apochromats, use special lenses to reduce or nearly eliminate chromatic aberration. These telescopes can be quite expensive, however. Refractors also cost much more per inch of aperture, due to the precision demanded of their multiple lenses. You won't see a 12" refractor for a working man's budget!

While reflectors and refractors may not be the only types of telescopes, they are the two main categories. One other common type, however, is the compound telescope. The compound telescope is a "best of both worlds" telescope. It combines pieces of the refracting and reflecting design, using both mirrors and lenses. Some advantages of this design are its long focal length, for high magnification and its small central obstruction, for better contrast. This design is not as expensive as some high-end refractors, but it is very large, and can be quite heavy. They also take a long time to reach thermal equilibrium due to their large, enclosed design.

Think about it this way: refractors are the shiny Ferraris and Lamborghinis of the telescope world, while reflectors are the powerful muscle cars of the telescope world. They both go fast and are fun to use, but go about doing so in a completely different way. For a beginner, I would recommend a Dobsonian, not just because they're my favorite, but because they're cheap, big, and easy to use. If you're budget supports a large refractor, this is also a great option.

The different types of telescopes, however, should not be looked at as competitors, but rather as complements to each other. It is not uncommon to see a refractor piggy-backed onto a reflector. This is because where one falls short, the other excels, and vice versa. The two should be used to complement each others' capabilities. Many people have several of each kind! I hope that this article has helped you in understanding the differences between the different types of telescopes. Whether you're a new astronomer looking to see which type to buy, or a veteran of one camp curious about the other, its good information. Next time you get a chance, look through another type of telescope, you might just come to like that design, too!

Clear skies!

Images courtesy of Celestron.


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Monday, February 11, 2008

A List of Galaxies

The other day, I posed this question to the members of the Cloudy Nights forum: "What are some good face-on spirals?" Among some of the responses I received was this list. This list compiles the 200 brightest galaxies in the night sky. It also gives RA/Dec coordinates for each, along with their magnitude, type, and orientation as viewed from Earth. I'm going to be using it to plan observing sessions.

Clear skies!

EDIT: I have made this list of galaxies available as a Microsoft Excel .xls file here.


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Thursday, February 7, 2008

Full Lunar Eclipse - Feb. 20, 2008

On the night of February 20/21, 2008, viewers on the night side of the Earth will observe a total lunar eclipse, which occurs when the moon passes directly behind the Earth, and enters its shadow. Observers in the Americas, Europe, and Africa will be posed for the best views.


The following table represents the predicted timetable for the lunar eclipse, as provided by Curt Renz, whose helpful astronomy website can be found at www.curtrenz.com/astronomical.html.

00:37 UT – Moon enters penumbra (gray fringe shadow)
01:43 UT – Moon enters umbra (dark inner shadow)
02:18 UT – 50% of Moon’s diameter covered by umbra
03:01 UT – Totality begins (magnitude 1.000)
03:26 UT – Maximum eclipse (magnitude 1.105)
03:51 UT – Totality ends (magnitude 1.000)
04:34 UT – 50% of Moon’s diameter covered by umbra (magnitude 0.500)
05:09 UT – Moon exits umbra (dark inner shadow)
06:16 UT – Moon exits penumbra (gray fringe shadow)

The times given in this table are Universal Time (UT), also known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), for the night of the 20/21. Therefore, these times are mostly in the very early morning of the 21st, just after midnight UT. To find your corresponding local time, subtract your time zone's offset from this number. So for example, Eastern time is GMT-5, so I would subtract 5 hours from each of the times listed here, so 00:37 UT becomes 7:37 PM EST. Central time is GMT-6, Mountain time is GMT-7, and Pacific time is GMT-8. Other time zone offsets are available here.

The moon will actually appear to turn a blood red color during maximum eclipse. This is an optical effect due to the refraction of sunlight by the Earth's atmosphere. Red light is bent most readily and is projected upon the face of the moon. Also notice Saturn's close proximity to the moon during the eclipse. I'll be setting up a composite shot of the eclipse with Youngstown's skyline, assuming skies are clear. This, however, is a slim chance in Northeast Ohio...

This is the last total lunar eclipse until two total eclipses on December 21, 2010, and June 15, 2011, so don't miss it!

Clear skies! (hopefully)...

EDIT: A composite image of the eclipse that I made from Youngstown, Ohio is available here.

Eclipse timetable courtesy of Curt Renz.


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Monday, February 4, 2008

Secondary Collimation Tip

During collimation, I sometimes find it difficult to remember which way each screw on the secondary moves the image of the primary. So I marked them on the secondary holder, so as I'm looking at the screws, I can see which way each one moves the primary's image, as seen from the eyepiece.


Clear skies!


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Why Not to Rely on the Laser Collimator

This is why you shouldn't rely solely on the laser collimator to check your Newtonian or Dobsonian's collimation. The other night, I spent an hour or two getting my scope precisely aligned using a Cheshire collimation tool. Just out of curiosity, I inserted the laser collimator in the focuser drawtube and this is what I see...


The laser dot should be pointed precisely in the center dot of the primary mirror. At first, I thought I had not collimated my scope very well, but when I put the Cheshire back in, everything was dead on. And the Cheshire does not lie. The reason the laser is so far off is because the laser itself is not collimated very well (or at all) from the factory. The laser is also prone to huge errors due to mechanical slop in the focuser and elsewhere. The Cheshire method is much more reliable, as this image proves.

Clear skies!


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Sunday, January 27, 2008

Ten Essential Astronomy Accessories

There are some things that the amateur astronomer should never leave home without. These ten accessories are just such items, and should be in every amateur astronomer's collection, whether they are beginners or masters. This is not a list of accessories that one absolutely needs to buy as a beginner, but rather a list of accessories that one should eventually acquire.

  1. A good observing chair -


    One of the most important things on a long night observing is to be comfortable. And you can't be comfortable if your chair or observing position are uncomfortable. Dobsonians have an advantage here over Equatorial mounts, because they don't get into nearly as many contorting positions. I use a Craftsman workbench stool with adjustable height. It works quite well, and is relatively inexpensive. If you want to spend a little more money, and get ultimate astronomical comfort, there are companies that make observing chairs specifically for astronomers. One such company is Stardust chairs. Some of their products can be found here.

  2. The Telrad reflex finder -


    The Telrad reflex finder is an inidsposable tool in the amateur astronomer's arsenal. If you don't have or don't want GO-TO tracking, and star-hopping is your thing, the Telrad is not only a convenience, it is an essential tool to find deep sky objects and other celestial objects. The Telrad can be made even more useful with the Telrad maps, which show how to use the Telrad's graduated circles as a calibrated angle measurement.

  3. An equipment case -


    Sometimes referred to as an eyepiece case, an equipment case is a good investment to help protect those precious eyepieces. The one pictured above was purchased at Lowe's for $25, and comes with the pull-out foam that you can shape to your items. It even has locks on the latches.

  4. A red flashlight -

    A red flashlight is a must for an astronomer. The color red does not harm your night-vision as much as white light does. I bought a small red LED flashlight that goes around your head. Then you don't need any hands to hold your flashlight, and both hands are free to handle that expensive eyepiece. Make sure, if you're going to a star party, that your red flashlight is not too bright. A dull brown color on white paper will do. If your light is too bright, use a red marker or nail polish to dull it down.

  5. Good star charts -


    It should go without saying that you won't be finding anything with your scope if you don't know where it is. Here, the Telrad maps work great, but you'll probably need something more comprehensive, too. Sky and Telescope's Pocket Sky Atlas (pictured above) is a good one. Also, I would recommend (especially for the beginner) Turn Left at Orion, which contains not only information on how to find seasonal objects, but also educational information on what the object is. It also does a great job of showing what each object will look like in small telescopes.

  6. Extra batteries for everything -

    Always keep extra batteries on hand for each piece of equipment that needs batteries. So, for example, the Telrad uses 2 AA batteries, and the cooling fan power pack on most GSO Dobsonians uses 8 AA's. So in this case, I would need to keep 10 AA's laying around, because the batteries in the fan pack or Telrad will die when you need them the most. This is part of Murphy's Law.

  7. A log-book -

    Keeping a log-book can actually help to improve your observing skills. A simple composition notebook will do here. While observing, jot down some notes on what you see, when you see it, where you see it, etc. Also, don't be afraid to try your hand at sketching. Sketching can greatly improve your observational skills, by training your eye to look for detail. A log-book will also help you remember what objects you've found on your Messier checklist or other catalog. Plus, you never know, your observations might be scientifically important some day! Think of a new Shoemaker-Levy 9 named after you!

  8. A comprehensive eyepiece set -



    Having a comprehensive eyepiece set is something that most astronomers spend a good deal of money on. A simple rule of thumb, though, is to have at least four or five good eyepieces ranging from low-power wide-field (larger focal length eyepiece) to high-power (smaller focal length eyepiece). There are tons and tons of choices here, and you must tailor these choices to your observing style. For example, if you prefer deep sky objects (DSO's), you will want more wide-field, 2" eyepieces. If you favor planetary and lunar observing, you might want more eyepieces in the higher power end. You can also use a 2x Barlow lens to effectively double the size of your eyepiece collection. A set of Plossl eyepieces from one of the major vendors can be a good kick-start for the beginning astronomer.

  9. Appropriate clothing for the season -

    This accessory is a must for anyone living in the Midwest or Northern US, or any other areas where winter weather can be brutal. Warm clothing is a must have when observing in winter temperatures, not just to remain comfortable, but to prevent frostbite and hypothermia. The key to staying warm is layering. Wear several layers of warm clothes, and keep most skin covered. You don't want to risk frostbite on exposed skin. Chemical hand-warmers can be picked up at any camping and outdoors outfitter's, such as your local Army-Navy surplus, Cabela's, or Gander Mountain. Wal-Mart even has a small selection in the hunting department. Put hand-warmers in your chest pockets to keep your torso nice and toasty. Some of the best sights in the Northern hemisphere are up in the winter time, so dress accordingly.

  10. Proper collimation tools -

    If you own a Newtonian or Dobsonian scope, collimation is the key to getting good performance from your telescope. Collimation is the precise alignment of all the optics in the telescope. Contrary to your telescope company's opinion, the laser collimator is not a good measure of collimation, especially on fast focal ratio reflectors. The trouble is that the laser collimator is most likely not collimated from the factory. The best alternative is to use a Cheshire eyepiece to line up all the reflections viewed through a peep-hole. This will get the secondary aligned properly. Then you can use the barlowed laser approach to get the primary just right. There are book-loads of information on this subject, more than can be covered here, so expect an article on proper collimation soon.

    Clear skies!


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Monday, January 21, 2008

A Map Pocket For Your Telescope

Have you ever wanted a nice way to hold your various star maps and astronomical books at the telescope? I thought of getting a little table for this, but the problem there is that as you slew your telescope around on its base, you might hit this table, or the table will become out of reach. I have a large table near where I observe, but sometimes its a pain to need to go over to the table to get a map, especially if you're using high magnification. After going over to the table, you'll need to find your target again. My solution was to make a map pocket for my telescope.


I made this map pocket using a "wall pocket" from Office Max. I got the metal mesh type so that it would be a little more durable than plastic. I figured the mesh would be better to keep dew off of my maps than smooth plastic. Here you can see a copy of Turn Left at Orion, a logbook, and a folder full of Telrad maps. I had to use shorter self-tapping screws than the ones the pocket came with, because the provided screws were longer than the base's wood is wide. So I just got some self-tapping screws of the same size, but shorter. I then drilled a small pilot hole and screwed it all together. Notice that on the Zhumell 10" Dob, the map pocket fits nicely under the eyepieces. On smaller models, it may be necessary to relocate the eyepiece rack. Should be pretty handy when using the scope!

Clear skies!


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Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Try This: Lunar Apparent Diameter

I was watching one of Discovery's The Universe episodes, when this came up: Have you ever wondered why the moon appears larger when near the horizon? Is its apparent diameter actually larger? Or is it just a trick of the mind's eye? You can find the answer to this yourself, using nothing but a clear moonlit night and your own thumb!

Next time you have a clear night, go outside at moon-rise, preferably near full moon. Complete sun/moon data can be found at the US Naval Observatory, and the moon's phase can be seen on the upper right corner of this page. Now, look at the moon, which will rise in the East, just like the sun. Watch it as it rises. It certainly looks bigger than normal right? Find its approximate apparent diameter by holding your thumb out at arm's length. Note how large the moon is in relation to your thumb (a pencil also works well).

Now, go out a few hours later when the moon has risen high in the sky. Repeat this experiment, and note that the moon will be the same size! How could this be? It appeared much larger earlier, right? Some conclude that the atmosphere is acting like some sort of lens and making the apparent diameter larger. This is not necessarily the case. It turns out that the moon is the same apparent size, but our minds are playing a trick on us, an optical illusion of sorts. When the moon is near the horizon, your brain has something to compare it to, be it a building, a tree, or power lines. The fact that the moon appears much larger than these objects infers to your brain that it is large. Once the moon is high in the sky, however, your brain can no longer compare its apparent diameter with anything nearby, so it appears smaller! Give it a try!

Clear skies!


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